That being said, I was a big fan of the Sani Seal until I had to pull a toilet where a Sani Seal had been used about six months previously. Although there could be leaking due to bowl shift, just retighten the bolts without having to pull the bowl and replace the wax (unless, of course, the leaking has been substantial enough to cause structural damage). It's been my experience that the nuts securing the bowl to the floor bolts will often loosen over time and the bowl will shift and break the wax seal. I prefer not using wax, primarily because wax is messy and is much more prone to fail. Usually you get the front in contact with the floor.Ĭlick to expand.Though I'm not a professional, I do a lot of toilet installs. Keep at least part of the base in contact to the floor. I would use a level on the bowl rim for two directions and optimize with shims, but that may be unneeded. Search for "polyseamseal" in the search for this forum. You will want to use shims, and you will want to apply an acrylic caulk around maybe 85% of the base. If you use wax, and your flange is recessed, you need to use more wax.
#Jumbo toilet wax ring free#
Korky Korky 6000BP Toilet Wax Free 3" Rubber Seal Kit may be worth looking at. If the flange was pretty far down, I might look at the Danco 10718X Perfect Seal Toilet Wax Ring. That seems to be fairly uncommon, but it appears to happen sometimes. If you try it and the toilet rocks on the saniseal without the toilet base hitting in at least two points, I would pull the Saniseal, and switch to wax. Suppose I had a Sani Seal ready, but when I got in there, I found the distance represented by the green arrow to be too small? I would switch to wax. My thinking is that once you inspect the new toilet and pull the old toilet, your plans could change.
Were you taking some kind of survey that did not involve planning a specific project? The Unifit adapter stayed in place as I shimmed my toilet to level it, and I did not have to worry about damaging the wax seal in the process. I would use wax for a Unifit install, even if my installation ordinary. I used wax under the Unifit I installed because it could be formed to my unusual installation. If you thought you may be pulling that toilet for some rework, the waxless solutions would be good for anybody. You need to compress and not try to decompress the wax.Īre you planning to become a professional, or are you going to stay a DIY who may not get it right the first time 95% of the time? If the space between the flange and the toilet is unusually tight, then wax is the way to go. Wax is not good if you need to lift the toilet back up to reposition or to insert shims after rocking or tilting is detected. Professionals tend to use wax, because they have the experience to set the toilet down right the first time. If it will compress more, consider getting one with a flange to limit wax extrusion into the drainage path.No big changes in that time. If it will compress less, you need a taller ring. The wax ring should be compressed around 1/2 to 3/4 it's initial height once installed.
Adjust this measurement by how high or low the floor flange surface is from finished floor. You can estimate which height ring is needed and if a flange is a good idea or not by placing a straight edge along the base of the inverted toilet and measuring from the straight edge to the ceiling of the toilet base.
Thus, it's not something you want to use unless there's a good chance you'll need it. This is why double height rings are often sold with flanges, the flange keeps the wax out of the drainage path.īut the flange itself is a bit smaller than the outlet pipe, so it forms a bit of an obstruction itself. But if you use a tall ring without the flange on a properly spaced toilet installation, excess wax will be squeezed into the drainage path, causing an undesirable obstruction. Toilets with more than normal spacing will need a taller ring to achieve a proper seal. Under ideal conditions, the standard ring is just a bit too tall so that it compresses just enough to form a good seal without squeezing out into the drainage path and causing an obstruction. How tall the ring is depends on how close the toilet's outlet horn is to the flange.
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